15-09 Switzerland – Jungfrau | Norman and Jan Rodgers

The Jungfrau Region, Switzerland’s Top of the World

As our plane descends on its final approach into the Zürich Flughafen (airport), I see through the window a tight grid of streets with tile-roofed, multi-storied houses, crowded cheek-by-jowl to each other and hugging the sidewalks like red-headed spectators waiting for a parade. Within hours of arrival, this breathtaking land called Switzerland grabs me with an intensity that progressively tightens its grip upon my heart and engulfs me in a world beyond my comprehension.— from “The Summits of Switzerland,” by Norman Rodgers, used by permission from Mature Living magazine.

This first time to see Europe made an indelible impression and an immediate emotional impact. The next surprise was the incomparable train system in Switzerland. Virtually no village in the country is beyond the reach of public transportation that is obsessively on time with precise connections and frequent departures. More than a half-hour wait between trains is rare and a more frequent problem is having enough time to make connections.

We boarded the Swiss national train for Bern at the station inside the Flughafen. The day was packed with new experiences and surprises. At each stop we were amazed at the dozens of bicycles parked at the railway station. Commuters peddle from home each day to catch the train for work in Zürich. In 1988 there was no need to lock the bicycles to protect from being stolen. The Swiss said that if anything was stolen, some foreigner was to blame. In Bern we road on a regional train system to Interlaken. From there the Berner Oberland Bahn train carried us to Grindelwald, our final destination in the high Alpine Jungfrau Region.

The last wonderful discovery of this momentous day was our hotel, the Kreuz & Post (pronounced Kroits unt Post), (Kreuz is the German word for cross) in this ski village. Outside of the larger cities, hotels are family owned, immaculate, and above all, charming.

We spent five days exploring the neighboring Lauterbrunnen Valley, Interlaken, Meiringen and Grindelwald. Railway passes give unlimited access to trains, buses, boats, and ski lifts.

Three dominant peaks are the centerpiece of the area: Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The Eiger is considered the fifth most dangerous mountain to climb (Mt. Everest is #8) by one source and tenth by another. The World Cup skiing championships have been held on the slopes near the base of these mountains.

Jan and I have returned here a half-dozen times over the years. It is our sacred space, a majestic sanctuary where a cocoon of God’s presence envelops us. Sitting on our balcony at the hotel, watching the mountains pull golden cloaks of sunset around themselves, the glory of it all overwhelms me, affirming again why this magnificent place has forever captured our hearts. — from “The Summits of Switzerland,” by Norman Rodgers, used by permission from Mature Living magazine.

Switzerland’s incredibly extensive and efficient rail system makes it one of the easiest countries for independent travelers to visit without having to rent a car. Rail passes provide virtually unlimited travel within the time limits of the passes.

Switzerland is not cheap. The sticker shock can be intimidating. It is one of the most expensive countries in Europe to visit, but the rewards far surpass the cost. Another option for visiting Switzereland is package tours, which may include the Glacier Express from Zermatt (Matterhorn) to St. Moritz. These provide a cursory overview of a country that deserves much, much more attention. The exposure for most of the people that we have encountered who have visited Switzerland was limited to Luzern and Interlaken, which is like Europeans who spend a day in New York and one at Disney World and assume they have seen the United States.

For us, Switzerland is best explored independently, with transportation by train. An excellent alternative to being totally on your own is to take a package tour from a company like Collette or Globus with a pre or post trip week in the Jungfrau. That works, too.

I’ll add detailed suggestions for daily excursions to this blog, and especially for those who have read my article, I am listing below some links to Internet sites that will provide a more extensive explanation of the Jungfrau.

Possible daily itineraries around the Jungfrau are:

1. Grindelwald, Mt. First, Pfingstegg, hike to glaciers

2. Kleine Scheidegg, Jungfrau Joch

3. Lauterbrunnen valley: Männlichen, Mürren, Shilthorn (Piz Gloria), Trümmelbach Falls

4. Interlaken, Harder Kulm, Brienz, Schynige Platte

A few of the many other worthy considerations:

1. Zürich city tour*

2. Day trip from Zürich to Appenzell*

3. Day trip from Zürich to Luzern*

4. Zermatt and the Matterhorn

5. Day trip from Grindelwald to Bern

Links to more information: